rodeo dog

{art + food + internets + cats} currently LIVE FROM PARIS
Nov 19
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Vicarious Experience Project: #1

For my inaugural vicarious experience assignment, I went with the first assigner, Stacy Miller who requested:

“Visit a Paris farmers market to find some kind of vegetable or fruit you’ve never eaten before.”

Friday Market at AnversI took Jake along with me to Marché Anvers, a market near Montmartre open only on Fridays (conveniently for late-risers) from 3-8. The market is an ideal size, not so small that you have to take whatever mealy apples you’re faced with, but not so large as to be overwhelmed with choice and then finding yourself walking away empty-handed.

The most eye-grabbing displays were the fishmongers, who had giant oysters, spiky sea urchins (how do you eat those?), giant prawns and more creatures beyond my capacity for identification. We walked up and down the corridor twice to scope out which vendors had the best stuff and (more importantly) would be patient with our bumbling french.

With the task of finding produce I’ve never eaten, we chose romanesco, an insane-looking vegetable that I’d seen before, but never actually had. As wikipedia tells us:

Romanesco broccoli or Roman Cauliflower is an edible flower of the species Brassica oleracea and a variant form of cauliflower. Romanesco broccoli was first documented in Italy (as broccolo romanesco) in the sixteenth century. It is sometimes called broccoflower, but that name is also applied to green-curded cauliflower cultivars. It is also known as coral broccoli. It is rich in vitamin C, fiber, and carotenoids.
The vegetable resembles a cauliflower, but is of a light green color and the inflorescence (the bud) has an approximate self-similar character, with the branched meristems making a logarithmic spiral. The broccoli’s shape could be described as fractal; each bud is composed of a series of smaller buds, all arranged in yet another logarithmic spiral.


Romanesco from Marché Anvers

< our pretty pretty romanesco. >


So, it’s one of the few foods you can eat that is visibly fractal. Neat! We also bought breakfast radishes, a soft-ball sized melon (“ah, c’est super, bon choix!” said the vendor) and a chunk of cantal entre-doux. Well, we meant to buy just a bit of cantal, but Jake impulsively asked for a demi-kilo, which is over a pound. So, it was a big chunk of cheese. Still getting used to metrics…

Our take from Marché Anvers

< everything we got from Marché Anvers, technically all new things since I’ve had radishes, but not breakfast radishes, and melon, but not this kind of petite melon, and cantal but not entre-doux cantal… >


I’ve always loved my trips to farmer’s markets, but they’re a bit more intimidating in France…there’s of course the language thing, but there’s also other rules and anxieties. For example, depending who your vendor is, it’s polite to refrain to touching anything and certainly not a good idea to rifle though the vegetables to find the one you want. At some grocers on the street, I’ve seen signs on every section of produce instructing “NE TOUCHEZ PAS!” So, of course, when I asked for my romanesco, I wasn’t sure what to do, since there was no way he could reach it from where he was, but made no moves to grab one and I certainly didn’t want to commit any farmer’s market sins. Eventually, he said “Alors? Donnez-moi” and I was allowed to choose my own. Now that I’ve crossed that barrier, next time perhaps I’ll be brave enough to order something from the fishmonger.

Friday Market at Anvers


I later blanched the romansco and served it with a warm olive-caper vinaigrette, which was tasty with the nutty flavor of the romanesco… stronger than cauliflower, but more subtle than broccoli, and overall, a nicer texture than both. We served the radishes as Julia Child recommended: raw, with butter and salt. Cantal is still being eaten a week later, but made for a great quiche a few days ago. And yes, the melon was super.

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Nov 16
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Rainy but nice November...

Food eaten:
Ate out a lot more in the last couple weeks…had an amazing meal at Les Enfants Perdu: prawns with sweet pesto and some kind of bizarre perfect succulent green that melted into drops when eating, le bar (a mediterranean fish) with a broiled zucchini melange. L’Original thai with Jennifer & Miklos, couscous with Jess, Jake & Esther at Marché des Enfants Rouge, kurdish sandwiches from around the corner, macarons from Pierre Hermé (oh, my…SO PERFECT), the best falafel sandwich EVER (according to both myself and Lenny Kravitz) from l’As du Falafel. Two lovely dinners at Andre, Jennifer, Miklos and Mario’s place, and requisite pizzas, quiches and cheese overload at home.

Ispahan de Pierre HerméLes Gambas at Les Enfants Perdu
< Ispahan macaron at Pierre Hermé, Les Gambas at Les Enfants Perdu >

Places gone:
Louvre with Jake on a Wednesday night (discount!) Fun to be in the museum at night, though it was crowded in the popular sections. Saw the Rivalités à Venise exhibition (Rivals in Rennaisance Venice) which had great paintings, but was a little too crowded to actually see the paintings from good vantage points. Saw a fraction of the rest of the museum before they started ushering people out at 9:45.

Musée d’Orsay with Caroline and Tyson, well-matched gallery-goers in terms of speed. We saw the whole thing by 1 pm…thought the Art Nouveau show was poorly curated, cramming way too much into way too small spaces, grouped on dubious themes with uneven quality between the objects. They also painted the walls for that section an eye-blistering purple and green…I get it, art nouveau is vibrant and overwhelming, but yikes. No thank you. Of course, the rest of the collection was lovely, I especially liked the dioramas and it was great to see Courbet’s Burial at Ornans in person. That is an amazing and big painting. Also loved the gilded room on one of the upper floors, after the restrained style of the rest of the building, it’s a delightful shock to walk into a room totally composed of gold and crystal.

Action Ecole Cinema to see Vertigo with Miklos and Jennifer…french subtitles are very distracting, I’m always trying to compare how the english is being translated totally differently, then I’m like, oh. Time to watch the moving images now.

Musée du Cinema with Esther, Jake & Jess for an exhibition on magic lanterns, intricate projectors popular in the 19th century for showing simple hand-painted animations and visual effects. Amazing machines, the film illustrations themselves ranged from intricate and educational to crude and creepy. Flying skulls! Porno! Magic lanterns!

Marché Anvers, more on that later, as it was one of my Vicarious Experiment Project assignments.

Gilded room at Musée d'OrsayLa Cinémathèque Français / Musée du CinemaFriday Market at Anvers

< gilded room at Musée d’Orsay, Musée du Cinema, Marché Anvers >

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Nov 04
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The Vicarious Experience Project

Ever had someone visit your city, town or hamlet and realize it had been forever since you went to the zoo, museum or orchard? Often (if not always) our choices of destinations are influenced by the network of people around us, leading us to new places as well as shaping our memory and experience of that place. With this in mind, I have an art project and tourist experiment that I need your help with.

What I need from you:
Assignments. Tell me a place in Paris you’d like me to go. Historical site, garden, restaurant, market, whatever. Creative assignments are a-ok. Simply assign me a destination, and tell me why you chose it.
(The fine print: I will try to do all the assignments! Those that are free or cheap will naturally be moved to the top of the pile. The reasoning behind your choice will be very interesting and helpful to me, but please don’t feel you have to write an essay.)

What’s in it for you:
You will certainly get a postcard from the assigned place. These experiences will be cataloged and expanded upon in artworks, so you’ll be immortalized as a muse if you’re into that kind of thing. Also, the warm and fuzzy feeling of helping out a struggling artist, vicariously visiting Paris, and my undying thanks…

The art theory part:
My artwork has been largely themed on collections, desire and accumulation; in the recent past this has centered on objects, and now I’m considering how experiences play into the idea of collecting. How and why do we collect and manifest our experiences? Do we do it for ourselves, or for other people? An experience is a nebulous and malleable concept, influenced by many variables. I plan to investigate in an autobiographical manner how these adventures are shaped by my network of people.

I look forward to your ideas and motivation. I plan to post updates about the project  here and on a Facebook group, where you’re welcome to post assignments. If you post an assignment here in the comments, be sure to tell me who you are! Of course, you can e-mail me as well…thanks for collaborating with me!

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Oct 28
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Le Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen

On Sunday, Jake and me headed over to the world’s biggest flea market, Le Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen. Once you get past the outer layer of knock-off purses, bedazzled jeans and bongs, you reach a precious nougat center where the actual market lives…picturesque stands with everything from six foot wide crystal chandeliers to bins of broken watch pieces. There are several markets within the overall market (Rue des Rosiers, Le Marché Malassis, Vernaison, Marché Dauphine and Marché Biron) each with a different flavor and (it would seem) price point.

Le Marché aux Puces de Saint-OuenLe Marché aux Puces de Saint-OuenLe Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen

Every store is quite arranged, to different effects: some are so crammed with junk it’s impossible to see a wall or a floor, while others are arranged like art installations, using their stock to create an environment and mood. We’ll be headed back soon with a map in hand…it’s a lovely place to wander, and an easy place to get lost.

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Oct 23
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Oh, right...blog.

Destinations accomplished:
Marché aux Fleurs et aux Oiseaux, right behind Notre Dame. Usually a flower market, on Sundays it’s also a bird market. The sound of all of the birds is amazing. Another highlight: G. Detou, a precious store off Rue Montogreil that sells beautiful teas, chocolates, baking supplies and gourmet foods (or as they call it in france, “food.”) I bought some amazing pickles, as well as “chunks noir” to make brownies, apparently a very difficult ingredient to find in Paris.

Walks taken:
After the bird market, took a leisurely Sunday walk from Notre Dame to home, via the Memorial de la Déportation, Ile Saint-Louis and the Marais. A beautiful fall afternoon, lots of street musicians and strolling families. Everybody is just a bit quieter on Sunday, it’s nice.

Classes taken:
French at Alliance Française. I’m 2 weeks into my month of classes, and am at the point where I know I’m learning, but have learned just enough to know I know very little. Right?

Food made or eaten:
African-spiced chicken, fennel quiche by Jess, red beans & rice by Jake, sweet potato salad, brownies, pizza by me, innumerable jambon and camembert sandwiches. Vietnamese at Rouleau de Printemps, Indian at a place on Passage Brady that I can’t remember the name of.

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Oct 11
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Expanding my internet empire...

I launched a new graphic design portfolio this week, under the name Rodeo Dog Design. I went with the interweb trend of a single page site, and learned a lot about CSS and lightbox in the process. Check it out! Hire me! Love me!

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Oct 09
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On French parenting:

Upon hearing a child screaming bloody murder outside our door, I checked the peephole to make sure he was ok…seemed his parents were using our hallway as time out, and he was showing his displeasure by kicking and hitting the door and screaming. He kicked the doormat a foot over, and while still in full tantrum mode, put it back where it belonged. Outraged vocalization is one thing, but a french child knows that everything belongs in its own place.

After a few minutes, his father opened the door, the screaming immediately ceased, and papa said “Êtes-vous prêt à arrêter?” “Are you ready to stop?” It would seem he was.

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Oct 08
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Bistrot Paul Bert is my new boyfriend.

Best meal in Paris so far, no contest. This is going to be a long post in a series of food posts because, come on, food is the tops.

For our new friend Kate’s birthday, we had planned to go to La Boulangerie, one of Jess’ favorite restaurants. Strangely, they never seemed answer the phone for reservations so we took a chance and just showed up…it was just a Tuesday after all. When we got there, there was a sign on the door that they would be closed for a “période indéterminé.” Merde! There was some kind of flood and no electricity, and although the owner kindly spoke to us briefly, he could make no recommendations for the neighborhood. So.

Jess suggested Bistrot Paul Bert, and we headed south. 25 minutes later with sore feet (heels in Paris are always a mistake. Always.) we arrived to be told, non mademoiselles, the restaurant is full. As the wise David Leibovitz tells us, what he really meant was “Convince me/We have enough Americans in here/Come up with a better story.” In her very best French (despite the waiter condecending to speak English) Jess told the waiter: it’s our friends birthday! the restaurant flooded! no electricity! we walked from Belleville!” There was a curt nod from the older man behind the counter, clearly the decider, and we were seated with no delay. Jess is a hero. There was champagne.

The food. Holy Jesus. Premier:

Kate and I had salad de feuilles, racines et tomates du jardin. No hyperbole: the most perfectly balanced and delicious salad I have ever had. There were these tiny croutons that were little explosions of roasty olive oil flavor, toasted pine nuts and wafer thin root vegetables…so perfect. Jess had the tartare du thon à la japonaise, which I assume was delicious, but I was too taken with my salad to convince her to give me a bite. Jake had tartine de rouget de roche à la tapanade, red mullet with tapenade, a tasty salty treat.

Then our main course arrived. Jake’s lapin à la moutarde et à l’estragon arrived plated and lovely, but the ladies of the table all received empty plates instead of the èpaule d’agneau rôtïe aux petits legumes we had ordered. We were momentarily confused, until a enormous beautiful copper pot was deposited on our table. With a bon appetit, the waiter was gone, and we were left to discover that the pot was filled with about 10 pounds of lamb shoulder and petite legumes. Oh, if they only had doggie bags in France.

Amazingly, we were still able to eat dessert. Jess and I had the figues rötis au miel, glace vanille maison, Kate got an insane looking and intense tasting pannacotta au kiwi, and Jake went with the fromage, which was serve-yourself-style on an immense block of wood.

The meal ended with calvados, champagne, and happy sighs. I guess I’d recommend the place. If you’re into that kind of thing.

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Oct 07
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Nuit Blanche

Annually, Nuit Blanche (white night or sleepless night) is held in Paris and other cities around the world, an all-night art festival with installations and performances available 7pm-7am all over the city. Being arty-types, we planned on seeing as much of it as possible…it didn’t really work out that way, but we had a good night.

1. Wine & cheese at Château Focillion (home of Andre, Jennifer, Miklos & Mario), group exodus to Métro Alésia.

2. Attempt to see giant discoball installation (La Maîtresse de la Tour Eiffel) in Jardin du Luxembourg. So did everybody else in Paris, and we abandoned the mission very quickly. We reached the edges of the gates, but I started to have inauguration flashbacks, and we got the hell out of there.

3. New plan: drinking. We headed for the Seine, wandering through crowds of the art-crazed youths. There was a small band in a park near the Sorbonne playing the Ghostbusters theme, and I would question why, but it was clear that the crowd LOVED IT. After stopping at un petit magasin on Rue Saint-Jacques for drinks-to-go, we found a spot on the left bank of the Seine. As Miklos said, it was an ok spot, but the view kind of sucked.

French kids are ROWDY. We wondered how often people fall into the Seine each year, especially as two young ladies near us seemed to spend most of the evening hanging their heads over the edge, ready to evacuate regrettable drinks. Ah, Paris. So romantic.

4. At around 1:30, we all went on our separate ways (I think primarily to seek out bathrooms.) Team Tiny Stables (that’s us) decided to try to see at least one art installation on the way home. The queue at Notre Dame seemed to be moving quickly, so we went to see Cristaux by Sylvie Fleury. It was amazing to be in the cathedral at 2am, and the crystals gave the gothic spaces an even more otherworldly sensibility, though it skewed towards alien rather than godly. After the boisterous crowd outside, it was a soothing and strangely instantaneous transition to respectful silence.

5. After finding the most blessed public toilette ever near Pont Notre Dame, we began our leisurely walk home, passing a projection by Igor Stravinsky on the way home. I’m not sure if I was necessarily into the projection itself, but I liked the overall scene it created, with clusters of people watching in this dark, graffitied courtyard.

6. Night completed with nutella crepe at 2:45am, and bed at 3. So, not totally a “sleepless night” but a pretty good one.

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Sep 28
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This week in flânerie...

You guys, blogging is so haaaard. But as Vill (continually) points out, I’m not allowed to complain so long as I’m living in Paris, so here’s my continued list of activities.

Walks taken:
Sunset walk to Sacre Coeur with unwelcome attempted bracelet application by awful scammer guys. Ne me touche pas! Leisurely walk to Les Halles and back on Sunday afternoon, via rue Poissonière/rue des Petits Carreaux/rue Montorgueil (do all the roads have to change names every block? Seriously.) This route is closed to car traffic on Sundays, and plan was immediately hatched to have brunch there next weekend.



< Sacre Coeur / view from Sacre Coeur / rue Foyatier, aka alternative steps down from Sacre Coeur. That fitness-crazy guy on the right was running up and down them, clapping and yelling. Whatever it takes, dude. >

< best restaurant sign ever on rue Montorgueil / la Case de Cousin Paul (a sweet little shop in Montmartre that I had read about months ago, and then happened across on our walk. Sometimes the internet is true!) / Velib bikes on rue de Turbigo >

Meals had:
A fennel and potato gratin by me, bean et lardon soup by me, vegetable galette by Jess, pizzas by me. We’re learning how to live without a Kitchen Aid. I know, unthinkable. An astounding amount of Indian food at La Reine du Kashmir on Passage Brady, Paris’ Petite Bombay. And it goes without saying, so much baguette and camembert. So much. And Jess is keeping us supplied with interesting alcohols…as I type I’m sipping un apéritif à Base de vin et de noix, which is a walnut-infused brandy. Want to know more? Read her review.

< Fennel-Potato Gratin: prettier in real life. Next time, more fennel. / Café on Passage Brady / Jess’ galette pre-oven. >

Things learned:
A French yard sale is called Vide Grenier, which means “empty your attic.” We happened upon one around the corner from our apartment on cour des Petites Écuries.
When a street changes its name from say “rue Saint-Denis” to “rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis” it indicates the edge of the city walls before 1860. Faubourg means “suburb.” One such point is marked near our apartment by our friendly neighborhood arch, so if we lived here in 1859, we’d be in the suburbs.
Parisian neighbors are not passive aggressive. They will yell at you if they don’t like something.

< chaussures à vendre à Vide Grenier / me basking in glow of laptop & Jess looking like a crazy happy person >

< an entry a few doors down from our apartment / le Vide Grenier / our modest neighborhood arch, Porte Saint-Denis (built 1672) about 3 blocks from our place >

Maladies suffered: 3 day cold, which seemed to affect only the ladies of the household. Good news: it doesn’t seem to be H1N1, and I healed courtesy of sleeping for 3 days, which saved me the horror of trying to learn how to use my international health insurance. Onward!

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